Day Four: Santa Reparata to Calvi

Woke to blue skies and a fabulous views over Isle Rousse. A rather wonderful buffet breakfast was laid on for us - all you could want and much more. We ate on the terrace – of course, why would you be indoors on such a fine morning? Fresh fruit salad with hazelnuts,  bread. Pain au chocolate, hams, eggs and cheeses. Very decent coffee. When we checked out,  the total bill came to €250, the room a real bargain at €81.00, plus dinner, drinks and breakfasts.

On the road for 10 am. Our plan for the day was to stay high up and simply pootle along the high road along the line of hill villages for a shortish ride to Calvi, our destination for the day. We'd decided to take it easy, and stop in Calvi rather than carry on to Galleria. The ride started brilliantly, with fabulous views as we passed through a series of interesting villages, The day started a bit hazy but soon warmed up.

But best laid plans quickly fell apart when we hit a road closure just after Pigno !!! We were heartbreakingly close along a pretty easy hill road route to Calvi but we had to rethink.  What to do?

Not much choice - there is no other road along the top. We had to turn and go back to  village town of Corbara from where we rapidly dropped all the way down to the main road at sea level. Felt concerned for all the cyclists going the other way, hoped they knew about the detour ahead if going south.

The T30 was super busy and we couldn't face following it all the way to Calvi. The day was still young, so we decided to head back into the hills and pick up the hill road somewhere after the closed section. So at Algajola we turned off the T30 and  headed back UP- UP-UP and more UP along the D 5551 to Aregno. Very hot, very steep and challenging. The ebikes and our legs were good for it, but nerves and tempers got a bit frayed with the heat and uncertainty of what lay ahead.

Still, the roads were not too busy, plenty of cyclists out testing their legs and the views - well - take a look :

 Eventually, we arrived back on our planned route. We then wound our way to Cateri, and on to Montemaggiore. We stopped in the village for lunch  about 1pm in the Place of the fountaine where we gratefully found both shade and benches. The ham and cheese sandwiches from breakfast were  a most welcome boost.  

Calvi was in sight, but we had a big descent back down to sea level to tackle first. The road from Montemaggiore plummets down a very scary series of wide fast hairpin bends before running like an arrow to the ocean. It dropped us back on the T30 about 5 kilometres out of Calvi. We finished the day with yet another main road grind - enlightened by a spell through a quiet pine lined road. It was all good until we arrived at the the city approach, where the traffic was every bit as manic (and some) as we had feared. The traffic was stop start all the way up the narrow steep roads toward the Citadel. For our safety and sanity, we decided to walk to the bikes uphill into the Old Town.

There we found the charming Hotel Magnolia dreaming away in a pedestrian only area. We took the bikes into the shaded courtyard and left them exactly as directed by the Madame. A room number 26 was lovely, with views out onto the garden. It proved to be an amazing Art deco establishment – another classy and highly photogenic place.

We showered and regrouped in body and mind before going out to look around Calvi. The Old Town is so charming with shops and restaurants and bars. The bars were surprisingly empty at 2:00 PM – probably everyone sensible was at siesta.  We walked down to the harbour front where there was a bit of a cooling breeze and enjoyed a drink and ice cream by the water front.

Back at the hotel we did some research and decided to book ahead beyond Galleria. We wanted to spend two nights in Puerto Ola, followed by one night in the hills after the Col de Vergio. We agreed that making our own way and being flexible with arrangements is great.

We were really glad that we’d chosen to stay in Calvi rather than go onto Galeria today as per the organised itinerary. The big diversion had turned our planned “easy rest day ride”  into a monumental challenge! Carrying on to Galleria did not bear thinking about, though no doubt we’d have coped, it would not have been enjoyable.

That evening we had a fine meal overlooking the sea. K had the menu €25 and we shared his mixed ham starter. For mains, the obligatory saute de vaue with olives and pasta and  a great beef burger. There was  cheese to finish. Back at the hotel we sat on the terrace and shared a glass or two of rose to round off another satisfying day.